Omega guanti, Naples.

–At 12 of Via Stella, Sanità district  (homeland of the glove makers), we find from 1920:Omega one of the oldest, Neapolitan glove makers families.

i’m introduced in the laboratory by Alberto, son of Mauro, (fourth generation of glove makers) where you can breathe a Neapolitan air: the smell of coffee, pictures of some holy cards close to the walls and the workers who pull fast  their cigarette while working meticulously to a phase of the glove.

After sipping my coffee, Alberto mentions me a little of their history almost a century and immediately begins the tour in the “Kingdom of the gloves” (along with a tourist).

Let’s start with the vision of the leather quality control (Lamb, peccary, deer, Carpincho) made by Alberto and then from Mauro, who consists of spreading the fabric so as to show the animal’s defects; then moistens the fabric on which rests the mold of the glove that is beaten on the skin before being cut. The raw material is Italian and French origin and: the tanning, refinement and dyeing is done in Naples; we would have various leather types, qualitatively speaking, and each one of them is used for a different part of the glove.

After the cut, the glove is assembled, completely by hand in 25 transactions made by 25 different ladies; tool sewing them altogether few (they are 2 and how we see are very old) that are used for essential seams such as: strock and pique. The final step is the application of the lining which is usually in cashmere or silk.

Squillace family produces for some great high-fashion brands like Chanel and 95% of gloves products (70,000 per year) are exported abroad.

Here are some shots taken during my tour in  “Kingdom of the gloves”, which I hope like me can appreciate.

Sartoria Sodano, bespoke jacket #2.

– Hello everyone, today I want to show, some shots of my new Sartoria Sodano bespoke jacket, made using a vintage wool blue fabric, bought in a small shop in my town.

The jacket commissioned presents a single button, wide 12cm rever wide with a slightly rounded shape, 2 patch pockets and 1 boat-shaped breast pocket, mounted very high. The armholes it’s “closed” type, with rollino to give stiffness and the shoulder is “saddled” with no padding, thus creating a natural concave shoulder. The 2 back vents are very deeps and the inner lining is in contrast, green, completely hand stitched.

The fit is amazing and the jacket adheres to the body perfectly.

I also wearing a pair of Sartoria Ciardi trouser, smooth, without pleats and a Vanacore bespoke shirt which has 9 handmade steps,  and was made with Canclini “Argento 120/2”,  light blue square fabric.

With the hope that , even you, appreciate this masterpiece, I wish you a good week, Nicola.

Volhner, Spain.

 –Hello everyone, today I want to introduce you to a very useful and interesting new accessory:Volhner.

Volhner is an accessory, created in Spain and its main function is to keep the neck of your shirt in the correct position even when not wearing the tie.
The design is flawless and made with Stainless Still.

It is used by inserting the stainless steel rod into the door-battens of the shirt and placing a small magnet in the inner part of the shirt at the end of the splint, keeping the neck of the shirt always in an optimal position.

The sale of Volhner it’s largest Online (http://www.volhner.com/), but in Italy you can buy it at some selected shops.

I hope you can appreciate, like me, Volhner , see you soon; N.

Pasquale Mola, Napoli.

 –At number 18, of Vico Conte di Mola, in the heart of the Neapolitan Spanish quarters, a few weeks ago we meet in his modest laboratory, Pasquale Mola fourth generation of a large family of Neapolitan trousermakers.

Upon entering his domain, Pasquale introduces me to his family (brothers and cousins), and all his employees. He introduces us all by saying that for him this work is a passion, and that without the passion you can not work.

Pasquale is a tailor by trade but specifically a trouser-maker  with about 35 years of experience. In his shop the radio is off but the silence is broken by the noise of the ironing board that slides quickly on the trousers. Pasquale explains that, to make a pair of trousers it takes a different organization from that of the jacket and in fact in the centre of the main room there is a small table with the slang words “the bancariello” on which are resting some key elements: needle, cotton, buttons and fabric with the ladies who are working on a pair of trousers, after each process they pass the pair onto the next lady and so on for 4 processes. Thus generating the term “step by step” that starts from the cut made by Pasquale and will end with the ironing.

Pasquale offers 2 trouser’s models wheel: Classic trousers that have a purely straight shape and a model, that place on the bank board, will form an S. The latter model has been created purely for the Japanese market because the Japanese tend to taking a particular position, bringing the pelvis forward and calves behind.

All the trousers are hand cut, following the measures taken on the client’s body and each point of this is hand-stitched.

Here are some photographs that depict the reality of the workshop and some key stages of the process, see you soon; N.

Roberto Ugolini, Firenze.

 –Hello folks, during my stay in Florence for the winter edition of Pitti Uomo 89, I had the pleasure of visiting Roberto Ugolini, who is one of the most famous shoemakers in the Florentine landscape.

Upon arriving in Via dei Michelozzi 17; Roberto introduces me to his workshop where he presents me with his collaborators and we move on to the small but intense tour in the “Paradise of shoes“. This was the first time I had entered a shop quite like this, being used to Sartoria I was amazed, but the atmosphere was the same with the recognisable sounds of the radio, work tools clanking and clicking, and the silence of the workers as they concentrated on their tasks.

After exploring everything, Roberto explains about the history of his works and the characteristics of his shoes. Roberto has been in this sector for 21 years, where he started as a repair man. He did this for two years, and then decided to broaden his horizons and create his own shoes.

His shoes are produced using Italian, French and English leathers which are tanned only in Italy, with different construction options from GoodYear/Hand Welted, (95% of his shoes) to Norwegian with braid and Tyrolean.

The shoes are made to measure just in the same way a suit would be. It makes the first measurement: the feet are put on a piece of paper and sketched around, from here measurements are taken. These details are then sent to the last-maker who processes the wooden last exactly to the measurements given. Subsequently, the form is modeled and on which then build the shoes; will process the first fitting (sometimes two, if the customer requires it) using scraps of leather and rubber sole, to mould around the feet to get more specific measurements and see how the shoes will fit and use these references on the final cut of the shoes.

From start to finish the process takes around 30 hours and of course, this is all completely hand-made. As this bespoke service is so unique, the waiting times are around 6 months (only for the first pair) to get measured and start the process, but this is something his customers do not seem to mind and it is clearly worth the wait.

Roberto Ugolini only offers -for now- a Bespoke service and the waiting times are approximately six months, for the first commission.

Here are some pictures of the craftsmen and workshop, and I hope you can see how great the atmosphere here is. The workers were superb and greeted us like their personal guests.
See you soon, Nicola. 

DIS – Design Italian Shoes.

 –Hello everyone, today i want to introduce DIS – Design Italian Shoes, a new brand of shoes, 100% Italian made that gives you the opportunity to customize your shoes from your computer.

DIS – Design Italian Shoes, offers more than 15 points of customization of your shoes starting with the color of the skin and ending with internal and external initials.

I chose a “D’annunzio –Double monk” model, in brown calf leather with a “Decò” effect, Goodyear made, rubber heel, leather sole and initial focus on the heel.

The shoes are manufactured in Italy (Marche), HandMade, using fist quality leathers tanned in Italy.

The delivery times are approximately four weeks since the shoes are “tailor-made”, since during the purchase will also be asked for the measurement of your foot and then process the size.

It also offers 3 levels of worn: Wide, Comfort and Regular and about 20 different models, fully customizable.

Here are some photos of the model chosen by me and some images depicting the phases of the purchase and selection of components.

See you soon, Nicola.

Pitti Uomo 89 – day 3.

 –Hello everyone, today I want to exhibit combination chosen for my last day in Florence at the Pitti Uomo 89.

I wore a bespoke jacket made by Sartoria Ciardi with 2 patch pockets, 3 buttons stretch to 2 pocket and boat-shaped breast pocket. Neapolitan shoulder, very soft and without rollino inside; the fabric used is vintage cashmere from Drapers.

The trouser, also bespoke, made by Sartoria Sodano, presents 1 pleat for side very long and deep, an american pocket. The fabric used is a Japanese Denim, Blue Selvedge from Berto.

The Shirt, Vanacore, has 9 steps by hand and the fabric used is a Canclini “Platinium 170/2”. 

The tie, silk unlined, Bottega Damerini. 

I hope you have been able to appreciate the pairings and game details, see you soon. N.

Pitti Uomo 89 – day 2.

 –Hello everyone, today I want to show you some shots taken during the 2nd day of Pitti Uomo 89.

For the occasion, I decided to take a very classic look, wearing a double-breasted suit made by Sartoria Sodano.
The fabric used is a 140’s of Holland & Sherry, as regards the trouser:  has a single pleat per side -very long and deep- and America pockets.

The jacket: double-breasted with two buttons, lined, has a wide lapels, boat-shaped breast pocket and 2 welt pockets; the shoulder has no padding and is slightly “wrinkled” as the Neapolitan tradition. The edges of the jacket are stitched, painstakingly, hand made. 

The Shirt: (http://nicolaradano.com/2015/12/28/vanacore-napoli-bespoke-shirt-with-canclini-fabric/), Vanacore -bespoke-  with 9 hand made steps and the fabric used is a  Canclini “Rotschield 200/2” 

The tie, silk, 7 folds, also is bespoke from Marzullo tie factory. 

I hope you all enjoy my colour combinations, and have a wonderful day. Nicola.

Pitti Uomo 89, day 1.

 –Hello guys, as every year I took part in the winter edition of Pitti Immagine. This year was the 89th and it was presented the collections of the upcoming A/W 2017.

The turnout was great, between buyers, bloggers and exhibitors from around the world.

For this occasion I decided to take on a classic look, but with sporty touches wearing: a jacket 3 buttons stretch to 2 with Vitale Barberis Canonico Fabric,  patch pockets, single button on the wrist and Neapolitan shoulder. Denim shirt with a medium washing  and the silk tie was unlined. The pant has a double pleats one of which is turned over and welt pockets. The shoe, a typical English brogues in polished leather.

I hope you enjoyed it all, see you soon; Nicola.