–Hello guys, today I want to show you some shots of bespoke shirt processing, commissioned three weeks ago at Vanacore, Neapolitan shirt-maker; using a Canclini “Rotschield 200/2” fabric.
Vanacore is located in Portici, in my country; is a reality that still small and young but boasts collaborations with large commercial giants of the eastern world. It composed of workers from better shirt factories that have made the history of the “Neapolitan shirt”.
Regarding the shirt: the measurement was carried out about 3 weeks ago, starting with a base 37 and going to make appropriate modifications then returning them on paper pattern. The fit is typical of a Vanacore shirt or “SN” which turns out to be closer to 6 cm compared to a 37 “DR” (regular), presenting the seam shoulder-sleeve slightly higher than usual, to put in out the head of the shoulder. I preferred with “mappina” sleeve but not excessively, the neck is to “free sail”, or intelato and the seam of the sleeve is offset with respect to that of the front since the sleeve is sewn to the “closed left”, and then hand stitched. The back is smooth and doesn’t have the front fintone. The fabric is washed before being used with special soaps to avoid future constrictions.
The finished garment has, as usual, 9 HandMade steps:buttonhole, button, collar, mouche, sleeve gauntlet , the yoke, cuff, the placket, harmole.
For a very good head of a craft, you also need a very good fabric, in this case is a “Rotshield 200/2” Canclini, chiselled, which has a very soft feel and an unparalleled lightness to the head finished.
Here are some of the image being cut, embroidery, and the final exam, see you soon; N.